Mountaineering courses in New Zealand are based out of great huts like the NZAC owned centenial hut – located at the head of the Franz Josef Glacier
At the head of the Franz Josef glacier is Centenial Hut. The recent NZ high alpine skills course run by Gary for the NZ Alpine Club, based themselves here for a few days of good weather covering crevasse rescue, pitching on snow and ice, navigation and weather forcasting.
specialised rock training, MJ leading
Aaron ready to belay us up
Aaron and MJ
Multipitch rock climbing on the granite slabs near Homer Tunnel in the Fiordland, Darren mountains was the start of this summers specialised Police SAR squad training.
Stunning location and excellent rock and even the Keas behaved themselves and did not destroy our packs.
The plan to do a traverse of Mt Macpherson over to Mt Talbot was thwarted by the Fiordland jungle mist, so after a slightly soggy ascent and descent to homer saddle, the continuation of specialised training was on the way back to Wanaka, with a climbing stop off at Kingston. Superb multipitch climbing with excellent lake views before a Queenstown burger.
Next climbing instruction installment will be in March …..what will we get up to then?…..
The peak season of mountaineering adventures in the Southern Alps has started with this last month of the year. Guided climbing adventures with us begin most often right here in Wanaka, including ascents of Mt Aspiring, Mt Tasman and of course the highest, Mt Cook – Aoraki.
Also mountaineering courses and Gary has just spent a 7 day trip with three Australians, based at Pioneer hut for the best weather days, learning, refreshing and improving alpine climbing skills, enjoying the alpine ambiance and taking in the wilderness aspect of the Southern Alps:
- Being dropped off in the Southern Alps
Learn the skills of alpine climbing from a professional IFMGA mountain guide
- Getting ready for the Wilderness
hire a mountain guide to learn the skills for alpine climbing in the Southern Alps of New Zealand
- truly glaciated terrain with plenty of crevasses
traveling over glaciers requires certain skills
- Crevasse rescue is part of the skills practiced on an instruction course
practicing crevasse rescue in New Zealand
- Ascending Mt Von Bulow, 2600 m
Summiting a peak during a mountaineering course
- Climbing Grey Peak, 2882 m
With a mountain guide, you can climb peaks during an instruction course
- Climbing up the Ridge, Grey Peak
- Ascent of Grey Peak on a mountaineering course
- Monty on the lead
Alpine climbing instruction course in NZ
- Fox glacier and Mt Tasman
Enjoying the moment on the Fox glacier with Mt Tasman in the back ground
Mic and Monty have both been on Alpinism adventures here with us before and it was a pleasure to introduce Mic’s son Pat to the fun and excitement of alpine climbing.
Panorama on a guided climb of Mt Cook
From the December ascents trip we have received some photos: Peter’s guided climb of New Zealand’s highest mountain with Gary Dickson in person. We are allowed to share them here:
A beautiful day for the climb of NZ's highest
two climbers in the distance
Fabulous views of the Southern Alps
Mid December is an excellent time for a trip up to Mt Cook – Aoraki, as the Linda Glacier Route is often still in good condition. A weather front potentially holding them back for a day, disappeared faster then expected and on the 11th Peter and Gary were the only climbers on that day to climb Mt Cook up the Linda, a very special feeling and an extra treat according to our guest.
Gary Dickson, chief of Alpinism & Ski
still climbing up towards the top, 3754 m
The summit is near
Thanks Peter, both for coming and for the photos, best wishes for many good adventures in 2013!
mountain guide Gary Dickson
Plateau hut, an awe inspiring location
learning to place ice screws on a climbing course
End of the month, two fit fellas will be arriving from Aussie to go on an intermediate-advanced climbing course with mountain guide Gaz. The NZ weather looks to have settled into a more settled state of play and alpine conditions look excellent for the 10 day specialized mountain training.
If you are looking for a climbing course we have two sceduled courses comming up:
- Intro to alpinism - 6 days 20th-25th February
- Total Alpinism – 7 days 04th-10th March
If you are an individual or a group looking to have a week of private mountaineering instruction, just get in touch and we can see if we can fit around your schedule.
Here some memorabilia of Alpinism during the last decade: youtube legendary Doug Ball who spent considerable time climbing with mountain guide Gary Dickson aka Gaz from January 2006 until August 2009.
Doug Ball, 79, on Mt Aspiring, New Zealand
Doug at 80, climbing a few peaks over 4000m in a week in Switzerland
Doug climbing high above the Dossenhütte, Kingspitze in the back ground
Doug had climbed Mt Cook Aoraki with his wife Peggy and many other peaks, but never Mt Aspiring. He got thwarted twice while climbing with Gaz because of conditions and weather but third time lucky and for a brief time he was considered the oldest climber to have sumited. He must have been an inspiration … more
Based at Centennial hut for some more alpine climbing
He sent us these lines just recently …”I use a slide show of my mountaineering photos as a screen saver so that my memories are not lost but are refreshed every day. Alpinism and Ski certainly made an enormous difference to my life. What would have become of me if I had just thrown in the sponge after Peggy died? I have so much to thank you both for and am not likely to ever forget it.”
keep going strong Doug
Second half of July here in Europe – the Alps with fresh snow all around. Rain galore for mother nature and good for the glaciers and mountaineering later on in the season, but definitely making it tricky right now for us to go climbing rock up high. We have managed a bit of climbing between the showers on the lower rock climbing crags and Gary prepared this photo album of the specialized climbing instruction a few weeks ago, enjoy.
Mid July and after two weeks of mountain guiding for ISM, Gary is ready for some top quality rock climbing with Iris. Climbing in europe, we are spoilt as we can choose to go climbing on lime stone, gneiss, granite and/or marble. The European Alps provide us with all sorts of fun from gazing at pretty flowers on trekking trips, watching chamoix and ibex to alpine climbing.
The New Zealand late winter program has been on our minds too and ski touring is definitely on. We have a team booked for ski touring end of October and have decided to offer two scheduled 6 day ski touring trips for individuals keen to share experience and cost: Tour I from 25.9.- 30.9. and Tour II from 10.-15.10.2011. There is also a 3 day avalanche course available for those keen to learn/improve their back country skills.
Views from Tour de Famelon, Leysin: Eiger,Mönch,Jungfrau